Fall 2018 Men's Fashion Over 50
Southward peaking from personal experience, 2017 was a challenging twelvemonth. It was bookended past ii major events that would change my world for e'er. In Jan I turned fifty (for those who have yet to hit the half-century milestone, let me clarify one thing: age is not simply a number) and in Dec, having been a Londoner for more than 30 years, I moved to the Kent coast in pursuit of a more than rewarding and peaceful being. OK, so at first glance you may well say the 2 are obviously intrinsically linked. Off-white enough. As we become older, we all hanker after a slower pace of life, correct? Correct. But the collision of these two events opened a can of worms that I, for one, didn't encounter coming.
Information technology was time to downsize and, in the interests of both age-appropriateness and to avoid having to book an even bigger removal truck, to edit my out-of-control wardrobe. Working as a fashion editor for more than iii decades comes with a whole lot of baggage, quite literally. There is a never-ending pressure to proceed upwardly with trends. And information technology comes at a price if, similar me, you are a hoarder – and, in my experience, most men are. After four days dividing up my spoils into "action" piles – i to keep, i for charity, 1 to re-habitation, one to sell on eBay – it became clear to me that 50 was not the new xl. It was, traumatically, the finishing line for half of what I owned and, if I am brutally honest, was still wearing.
Crossing over to the wrong side of a one-half-centenary turns out to exist a pivotal junction: yous are forced to make decisions on what you lot should not, as opposed to should, be wearing. A lot of men entering their 50s fall into one of two camps (with a minority bridging the divide): those who have given up, and those who don't know when to requite it up, with the old me falling uncomfortably into the latter. I get that now.
First to striking the deck were my combat trousers, which seem to breed if left alone in a dark closet. I lived in combats through the 1990s and 2000s, quietly phasing them out and only giving them the odd invitee appearance in contempo years. In fact, any trousers that are oversized, take too many pockets or zips, or have too much surface ornament are a definite no-no. And while we are on the subject of wardrobe staples that have a military heritage, annihilation in camouflage print also needs to bow out gracefully.
My communication is to proceed things in the trouser department plain and elementary, with a casual/formal edge – that's manner speak for more laidback than a suit trouser but more presentable than a pyjama. I am thinking here of a classic jean cut made in a luxury material, every bit opposed to denim, or a chino that has a careworn vibe, and isn't too box-fresh or preppy. Margaret Howell makes a mean trouser (a washed cotton fiber twill chino will set you back nigh £165) as does the Swedish high-street mecca for nuts, Arket, whose trouser offer ranges from £55 to £90 (I'm a big fan of their relaxed hopsack slacks).
Another detail I seemed to ain in abundance were Antipodal Jack Purcell sneakers, keeping a pair in about every conceivable colour. Having spent years thinking these were a more suitable culling to a trainer for an older human, they suddenly became a alarm sign of somebody badly trying to hang on to their youth. Reaching 50 doesn't hateful it'due south the finish of the route for sneakers – the way forward is to trade upwards and opt for a quality pair of non-branded shoes from a brand like Common Projects, Harrys of London (y'all tin can't go incorrect with the Nimble at £295) or Grenson, all of whom have mastered the smart-shoe-to-sneaker hybrid. You can besides, at a push button, go away with an Adidas Stan Smith to help soften the corporate edges if you desire a sneaker that works with tailoring.
A philosophy to prefer across your unabridged wardrobe is that less is more (both stylistically and in terms of quantity). At present that the fourth dimension to follow trends has thankfully come to an end, it is better to accept a select number of investment items that cost a bit more than and will last longer than a landfill of cheaper alternatives.
Some other mistake men brand is to hold on to things for decades, in the belief they will come back into fashion. In theory that is true – we are having a flake of a 90s revival as we speak. Only note to cocky: these revivals are intended for a younger generation. The bucket hats, anoraks and fleece track-tops that currently expect great on kids should be given a wide berth. You won't give off the vibe of a man with their finger on the pulse – you will only await like that guy who got stuck in the Britpop era. Baseball caps (I'm only going to say 1 thing… Forrest Gump), skinny jeans, parkas and Hawaiian shirts are all also on the "to ditch" list. Channel your inner Richard Burton instead and make friends with rollneck knits, Harrington-style jackets (Oliver Spencer is the main of these), pea coats and softly constructed tweed coats. Private White VC is a brand that knows how to make the latter properly. Comfort is important but doesn't mean hit the default switch and wearing age-inappropriate sportswear or, fifty-fifty worse, looking like you lot have given up on way altogether.
Some other historic period-inappropriate alert: anything on an eastward-commerce website prefixed with the give-and-take "Dad" – such as Dad trainers or Dad jeans (cue Balenciaga) – isn't a green lite for you lot to get the credit carte out. The word is used ironically, to describe something your dad would have worn, and should be avoided. The impression you should be giving is a man of the world who has lived and made intelligent and experienced choices: a man who doesn't need to jump on to every bandwagon, but is in command, happy with his lot, and confident.
Moving to the declension was my choice, turning 50 was inevitable – but at least, wardrobe edit in the purse, I can control how stylishly I decide to live it.
What men should be wearing
Cut edge
Go for tailoring. Overtly corporate suits should brand mode for lighter constructed blazers in softer, more than coincidental fabrics. Lacoste makes a great jacket that feels like y'all are wearing a cardigan (lacoste.com), but still looks the business, equally does the own-brand Mr Porter range, Mr P (mrporter.com) which, incidentally, has a cracking edit beyond the board for men of a certain historic period. Navy slim-fit unstructured jersey blazer, £425, Mr P (mrporter.com)
Anxiety first
Comfy shoes, as you mature, are a necessity. But getting the residuum between casual and formal can be tricky. The rule of thumb is a rubberised sole, with an upper in premium leather. Brands such as Grenson, which has a stellar chestnut-coloured version, or high street minimalist Cos (cosstores.com) have nailed the equilibrium. Mitt-painted calf leather sneakers, £170, grenson.com
Don't sweat it
Rollneck knits in fine-estimate yarns should be at the top of your list of basics. They are a great way to introduce colour into your wardrobe – just be cautious. John Smedley (johnsmedley.com) has a dandy range, every bit does good old stalwart Marks & Spencer (marksandspencer.com). Hawley rollneck pullover in ocean-island cotton, £145, johnsmedley.com
Chino challenge
Opt for chinos that have been garment-dyed, giving a more lived-in patina. Jigsaw cuts a great fit (jigsaw-online.com), as does Joseph (joseph-manner.com) if yous don't listen paying a bit. Don't cut them too short at the ankle though, similar the young kids exercise. Slim-fit stretch chinos, £85, jigsaw-online.com
Ane-stop store
For all things age-appropriate head to Oliver Spencer. His timeless dress nod towards the seasonal trends while keeping hold of the reins, and his stores are a i-finish-shop for us older guys. My favourite slice is the Waltham jacket. Waltham jacket in Keeley Oatmeal, £329, oliverspencer.co.uk
Perfect scents
Any man entering their gilded years should invest in a less 'Gatwick duty-free' and a more 'niche' fragrance. Anything that contains woody notes like vetiver is normally a crowd-pleaser, and archetype perfumers such as Creed (creedfragrances.co.uk) or Tom Daxon accept iconic products. Cologne Absolute eau de parfum, £105 for 50ml, tomdaxon.com
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